LEAD
The aim is to go as high as possible on a 15m wall. Climbers have a limited amount of time (6 minutes in qualifications and 8 minutes for semi-finals and finals) for their attempt. In semi-finals and finals, the climbers have no prior knowledge of the route (they are said to climb ‘on sight’). They do not see the previous climbers’ attempts (unlike in qualifications) but there is a collective observation time (6 minutes).
Male and female climbers have different routes.
Handholds can be:
- Controlled and stable: the height is recorded by way of the last controlled hold
- Used: the climber has controlled the hold and begun to move towards the next hold (in which case the height will be recorded with a “+")
Competition organisation
2 qualifying pools, split according to international rankings over 2 routes: the 13 best climbers from each pool qualify
1 semi-final route the 8 best climbers qualify
1 final route
The routes are modified between each round
Ranking
This is dictated by the height achieved by the climber.
BOULDERING
The aim is to solve (complete) the most problems in the least amount of attempts over a given period of time, on several 4m structures, equipped with safety mats.
The climbers have a specified amount of time (5 minutes in qualifications and semi-finals, 4 in finals) in which to attempt each problem in turn.
Male and female climbers have different routes.
Competition organisation
1 qualifying round (5 problems) with 2 pools (as for lead): the 10 best climbers from each pool qualify
1 semi—final (4 problems) : the best 6 climbers qualify
1 final (4 problems)
New problems are set for each round.
Ranking
This is dictated by the number of problems solved. The climber to solve the most problems wins. If there is a tie, the number of attempts is counted. If there is still a tie, the number of bonus holds is taken into account and then the number of attempts to reach the bonus.
*Intermediate holds in the problem, identified by a colour code
SPEED
The aim is to be the fastest to get to the top of a 15m high wall.
Competition organisation
1 qualification phase: each climber has two attempts in which to lodge the fastest time possible. The best 16 climbers qualify.
1 final phase: depending on their ranking after the qualifications, climbers will face off 2 by 2 (the 1st against the 16th, the 2nd against the 15th, etc.) in 8th finals, quarter finals, semi-finals and finals.
Ranking
The climbers duel in pairs on absolutely identical routes. The winner is the first to arrive at the top of the route.
Records
For the last 9 years, there has been a homologated standard 15m wall, the only one that enables records to be validated.
World record
- Female: 7.53 Iuliia KAPLINA (RUS) 11.07.2015 IFSC World Cup Chamonix, France
- Male : 5.60 Danyl BOLDYREV (UKR) 12.09.2014 IFSC World Championships in Gijón, Spain (Final)
France
- Female : 7.62 Anouck JAUBERT 25/04/2015 French Championships 2015, Voiron
- Male : 5.82 Bassa MAWEM 25/04/2015 French Championships 2015, Voiron
PARACLIMBING
In July 2011, the IFSC embraced disability in sport, organising the first ever World Paraclimbing Championships in the history of climbing. Since then three Wolrd Paraclimbing Championships have taken place (Arco 2011, Paris 2012 and Gijón 2014) , enabling the discipline to firmly establish itself in the climbing world.
Climbers are belayed on top rope.
Male and female climbers have different routes.
Competition organisation
The number of categories that will be featured, will depend on the number of climbers enrolled and the number of countries represented.
2 qualification routes per category ( the number of qualifiers will depend on the number of participants)
A final route
Ranking
This is dictated by the height achieved by the climber (see Lead).
